Fashion Fetish: Marina Hoermanseder’s S/S 14 Collection

Marina Hoermanseder’s latest work challenges preconceptions and pushes boundaries with an erotic, innovative line.

Inspired by 18th Century orthopedic corsets, and sharp contrasts of color, texture, functionality and aesthetic exuberance, this collection flaunts the female form with an unconventional edge and alluring silhouettes. Flattering shapes, intricate detail and a balance of masculine structure with feminine flow nods towards Alexander McQueen with whom Hoermanseder interned during her formative years as a designer.

The use of vegetable-tanned, hand-lacquered leather in a striking contrast of nudes and bold red compliments the similarly contrasting choice of cuts. By experimenting with leather straps, buckles, smooth castings and rigid constrictions, she raises the question of bondage against the backdrop of feminist subversion. By strapping themselves into these avant-garde contraptions, these women are rupturing normative associations with such suggestive attire. With a deft hand and clear conceptual direction, Hoermanseder is delicate in her approach to such implications while fully utilizing these stylistic tropes to the visual advantage of the line.

Elegant, eccentric, and evocative, this collection is an astonishing debut for this Viennese designer. Hailing from Austria, having studied at London’s Central St Martins College and establishing herself as a brand in Berlin, her European influences are evident in her work. Drawing on military structure, old Anglican orthopedic contstrains and a nod to the Elizabethan era with ruffled chiffon in flesh and blood tones, the collection forms a romantic, poetic narrative.

Demonstrating a high standard of craftsmanship, a first-hand knowledge of the female form and an invigorating perspective on the beauty of the unconventional, Hoermanseder creates a peculiar dialogue between the garment and the body. Simultaneously restrictive and expressive, the pieces range from ready-to-wear to dying-to-wear to complete works of art. Fashion forward, erotic and almost architectural in their structural format, they are striking on the runway and showroom alike.

Photography courtesy of Marina Hoermanseder